Old Tokyo, within walking distance of Ginza. We begin at your hotel at 8:00, and within half an hour we are standing somewhere that has barely noticed the last hundred years, let alone the last ten. This is Tsukiji: close enough to Ginza to reach on foot, and far enough from it to feel like a different city entirely. We start at Tsukiji Hongan-ji, a temple unlike any other in Tokyo. Its pale stone hall, completed in 1934, borrows nothing from the Chinese-influenced style most Japanese temples...

Every few months, the same question comes back into search bars and chat windows: Tsukiji moved to Toyosu, so is there any reason left to go? I hear a version of it from nearly every guest who mentions the market before their trip, and it deserves a straight answer rather than a brochure's non-answer. What actually moved, and what stayed In October 2018, Tokyo's central wholesale market, the professional trading floor where wholesalers and licensed buyers handled the city's seafood and...

For most travelers, a trip to Japan means choosing between temples in Kyoto and neon in Tokyo. For someone living with kidney failure, it means something else first: where is the nearest dialysis chair — and can it be reached three times a week without losing the trip to logistics?